NUKU HIVA
is the largest island in the Marquesan chain, and we are anchored in the bay by Taiohae, the largest town on the island. Nuku Hiva was formed by two volcanoes, creating a lush valley between the two that is devoted to farms and pastureland. The scenery here is awe inspiring; sharp jagged peaks of green surrounding crystal blue water.
Jim has been busy sewing a large shade cover for the boat. He brought an old sail from home, which he is trying to turn square. There is much muttering and grumbling coming from the cockpit, where “sewing central” is located, but I think he has it about done. We scramble up to help with “fittings”, draping the sail over the boom and front of the boat; otherwise, we have discovered it is just best to let the poor guy sew.
We have been out of water for about three days now – we haven’t been out to sea to make water with our watermaker, and the water on the island is not clean enough to put in our tanks. We have been going ashore in the dinghy with jerry cans and filling them from the spigot. Then we come back to the boat, add some Clorox, and heat some of the water for dishes. There is a shower on the quay – no electricity or warm water. Usually we don’t get around to taking showers till after dark, so we are in the pitch black, feeling around cold concrete walls and floors for the soap and the shower handle. That first blast of cold water is always breath- taking to me. Literally. See, it’s not all fun and games out here!
Molly, Jessie and I have been catching up on math – I feel like we are way behind. I’m not worried about the other subjects. They have read almost all the historical fiction books we have on board, and know a lot more history than I will ever know.
We found a beautiful little church to attend on Easter Sunday. The front was filled with flowers; frangipani, plumeria, tiare, gardenia, and ginger. The singling was so pure and sweet – even the children harmonized perfectly. There were 6 men who sat in the congregation, playing guitars and ukuleles. Instead of bread and wine at communion, they served coconut chunks and coconut milk. After church, we went to the best restaurant in town and had a three-hour lunch. Jim had goat – the rest of us didn’t. For dessert, we had these amazing little lava cakes – chocolate with a soft chocolate center and ice cream. I thought I had only ordered one for the four of us, but somehow we each got one. I wish I knew a lot more French than I do. The long walk back to the boat helped us digest our delicious lunch.
Our plan is to head to an internet café today and download some of our pictures. If we succeed, they will be in the media gallery!